Athens Riviera: greek summer with a twist
We start at the very tip of the Athens Riviera, at the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion, which rivals the Acropolis of Athens in beauty and importance. The Doric temple we see today was built from local marble on the ruins of the Archaic temple in 444-440 BC, during the time of Pericles, the Athenian general who represents the Golden Age of Athens. Together with the Parthenon and The Temple of Aphaia on Aegina, it was part of a Sacred Triangle and was dedicated to the sea god Poseidon.
Perhaps its greatest legacy comes from the myth of King Aegeus, who jumped to his death from the cliff in front of the temple when his son, Theseus, forgot to replace the black sails of his boat with white ones to show that he was alive after defeating the legendary Minotaur in Crete. The sea that claimed the life of King Aegeus was thereafter known as the Aegean.
That’s something to think about as you look out towards the islands of Kea, Kythnos and Aegina, and even Serifos on a good day, or as you swim at the beach below the temple. Then find yourself a seafood taverna and make the most of your day trip from Athens.
Driving to the Temple of Poseidon, you can’t help but notice the dozens of beaches and swimming spots along the way. The beaches of the Athens Riviera are another special feature of the Greek capital. There’s everything from fully organised beaches, luxury resorts and beach bars to secluded coves and beaches with no facilities at all, if you’re looking for peace and quiet and contact with nature.
It takes no effort to uncover resort beaches in Voula and Varkiza (Yabanaki), as well as Vouliagmeni beach and its glitzy neighbour Astir (if you want to spend a bit more). Mikro and Megalo Kavouri are free beaches in the same area, or you can travel a little further down the coast to the likes of Lomvarda, Althea, Mavro Lithari, Agios Nikolaos and Legrena, or – just below the Temple of Poseidon – Sounio beach.
The beauty of Lake Vouliagmeni is that it offers a year-round retreat for anyone looking for a Zen atmosphere created by a rare geological phenomenon. The remains of an enormous cave whose roof collapsed some 2,000 years ago, the lake maintains a temperature of 21-28 degrees Celsius and is a mixture of seawater and freshwater fed by underground springs. It is rich in minerals and trace elements such as potassium, lithium, calcium and iron, which are known to help with rheumatism, sports injuries, skin conditions and more. Add to this the bonus of the Garra Rufa fish (aptly nicknamed Doctor Fish) which offer a free exfoliation of your feet and legs as you get into the water and it’s unsurprising that Lake Vouiagmeni, which has sunbeds and a cafe-restaurant, attracts bathers throughout the year.
Pick your seaside activity
On such a gorgeous stretch of coastline, you’ll be itching to add some sea activities to your holidays. Organised and tailor-made day trips by yacht, sailing boat or catamaran set out from the marinas of the Athenian Riviera. In just a few hours, you can be in Aegina or neighbouring Moni or Agistri, or one of the other islands close to Athens like Hydra and Poros. Alternatively, you can opt for a boat trip that takes you up the coast towards Cape Sounion, stopping at coves or islets (like Idroussa) along the way.
Another great joy of discovering the Athenian Riviera is finding a spot to take a coastal stroll. There are plenty to choose from. Part of the experience of visiting the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) is to include a walk or bike ride along the seafront. Opposite the SNFCC is the Marina Delta (Kallithea), from where you can walk past Flisvos Marina (save your coffee break for here) and end at the Faliro Park, which has a great playground. On the way, you pass the Averof, an early 20th century Hellenic Navy cruiser that is now a floating museum. If you’re visiting with kids, the Benaki Toy Museum near Flisvos Marina has one of the largest collections of vintage toys, games and children’s books in Europe. Other suggestions include walking along the promenade from Paleo Faliro beach to Alimos Marina and the waterfront path by the beaches and marinas of Glyfada.
The last of your things to do in the Athens Riviera is to join the locals in one of their favourite summer pastimes. Open-air cinemas operate from April/May until late September, and Athenians don’t need a second invitation to get tickets for everything from European classics to new releases. Classic venues near or by the sea include Cine Alimos and Cine Flisvos and the Ria and Arian outdoor cinemas in Glyfada and Varkiza, which have been operating since 1959 and 1963 respectively.