The best food & drink experiences in Corfu
Just as you can see and feel Corfu’s rich cultural identity, so too can you smell and taste it. The Venetians (at a time when most of Greece was under Ottoman rule) left the best of themselves on the food front, but you’ll also find British and other influences in Corfu – all of which have given the island a unique local flavour.
As you wander around Corfu Old Town – down the cantounia (pedestrianised little roads) and past stores selling local products and open-air markets – you’ll piece together a unique history. The Fortezza Vecchia and Nuova (Old and New Fortress), Campiello (atmospheric old quarter) and Spianada Square all carry their Venetian legacy in their names. Just as sofrito (pan-fried beef in a parley and garlic sauce, sautéed with wine), pastitsada (beef or rooster casserole with pasta), bianco (a succulent fish-based dish) and bourdeto (a spicy fish dish whose red colour comes mostly from peppers) do in tavernas.
Yes, Corfu’s food influences are often Venetian, but the taste is unmistakably Greek. The olive oil, honey and wine you enjoy on Corfu will most likely be local. Even the beer could be. And let’s not mention the dairy and meat products or the fresh fish. You’ll discover it all on a food tour – definitely one of the best things to do In Corfu, whether it’s a full-day experience or spread throughout your holiday. Just don’t forget to bring your appetite.
Who would have expected that ginger beer would be part of Corfu’s culinary culture? And yet, ask for a ‘tsitsibira’ and that’s what you’ll get. You have the British to thank for this tangy delight – and, specifically, a brewery that was founded in 1842 to produce it for British soldiers. The locals developed a taste for it and the rest is history. And if a regular beer is more to your taste, fear not. A brewery opened in 2006 producing red and dark ales and weisses that are exported in growing numbers. The brewery (out of town) offers beer-tasting experiences.
The kumquat
Another legacy of the British that has been enthusiastically adopted by locals. The bittersweet citrus fruit was introduced by botanist Robert Fortune in the 19th century and has been cultivated on Corfu ever since, chiefly to produce a liqueur or preserved sweets. It’s even gained PDO status. You can visit a factory to see the production process, but you’ll find kumquat products in stores all around the island and probably be offered a glass of the liqueur to end your meal.
A traditional almond snack
For a little energy boost as you explore, there’s nothing better than a local almond snack. Mandoles are caramelised almonds (the name comes from the Italian for almond) while mandolato is a soft nougat bar also containing honey. You’ll find them in plenty of shops in the Old Town.
Corfiot cold cuts and cheeses are made for meze. First, order yourself an ouzo and then ask for some suggestions. Some tips from us: Nouboulo (pork fillet marinated in wine), salado (pork salami with garlic, sea salt, pepper and local herbs), hard and peppery graviera cheese (similar to Italian pecorino) and sykomaida (a fig paste with grape must wrapped in walnut leaves). They’re also perfect for taking home with you.
The olive oil
Olive cultivation took root under the Venetians and there are now an estimated 4 million olive trees on Corfu. It is said that the island once supplied olive oil to the Vatican. You can visit a traditional or modern olive press and the Olive Museum in Kynopiastes village, but there are also plenty of opportunities to buy olives and olive oil in town as well as olive oil products you wouldn’t expect, such as soap at the Patounis Soap Factory. It’s the only 19th-century soap producer in Corfu still operating. If you’re interested in an olive tour, there are providers that offer the experience.
A local market
If you want to see what Corfiots take home in their weekly shop, head to the Central Market near the New Fortress. You’ll find fresh fruit & vegetables and seafood (from sardines to grouper and cuttlefish) as well as honey, kumquat sweets and other local delicacies. You’ll also be entertained by the banter of local traders.
Corfiot butter has a very delicate, creamy taste that can be attributed to the higher altitude grazing pastures for the island’s cows. And if you want a cheeky something with your coffee, order a galaktoboureko (filo pastry with custard filling, generously drizzled with syrup). Find yourself a shop specialising in Corfiot dairy products, such as the Dairy Shop (galaktopolio) of Alexis Periklis, operating since 1935 and selling butter, yogurt and sweet delights which you can either buy or enjoy at a table. It’s a local favourite. They say that Alexis gained fame in London because ship-owner Onassis Aristotle ordered 3kg of butter to be flown over every week along with Corfiot strawberries for his wife, Jacquie.
The wine
There was a time when there were vineyards all over Corfu, only for the Venetians to replace them with olive trees. In recent years, however, Corfiot wine has begun turning heads once again with the creation of two Protected Geographical Indications areas (Kerkyra and Halikouna) and a selection of wineries offering vineyard tours and wine tasting. Some are estates while others make you feel you’re visiting a local family with a small vineyard attached to their house. You’ll learn all about the indigenous white Kakotrigis grape (which accounts for the bulk of Corfu’s production) and the Skopelitiko grape (for reds and rosés). They say that the wine offered by King Alkinous to Odysseus was from the Kakotrigis grape. And if it’s good enough for Odysseus…